A Dusting of Coco…

This year sees the release of Warner Brothers ‘Coco avant Chanel’. Following the life of fashion legend and pioneer Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel the movie is a biopic of her life with Audrey Tautou starring as the woman who revolutionized fashion.

© Warner Bros. France

Born in a poorhouse in France in 1883 Coco had a troubled childhood and from the age of twelve she spent several years in an orphanage where she learned the trade of a seamstress. Her sewing skills were developed during summer vacations when she spent time with female relatives and at the age of eighteen she left the orphanage to work for a local tailor. This would be the beginning of her becoming ‘Coco’ and the start of her creating the fundamentals of Maison Chanel.

Modern simplicity became the muse behind Chanel’s creations; she first worked as a milliner and went on to become a tailoress. Using menswear as an inspiration she used jersey to create her garments as the textile was low cost due to it primarily being used for men’s underwear. Drop waist dresses and the flapper lifestyle became associated with her designs.

By 1923 she had established herself; simple designs with complex construction and quilted silk linings became her signature as well as her vivacious outlook on life. She encouraged women to be free, to lose the restrictions of corsetry and to throw caution to the winds something that embodied her first signature fragrance, Chanel No.5. Released in 1921 and named after her favorite number, the perfume was initially banned because of its provocative scent.

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

The transcendent design of the Chanel jacket which we associate with the house was developed over a number of years, its exterior made from tweed – a cheap fabric at the time favoured by Chanel for its construction – with a silk quilted lining and ribbon trim was created with the notion of form fitting luxury. Its heavy finishing’s of chain and buttons added weight to the garment which is now a staple in hundreds of women’s wardrobes as it still retains the power to transform any outfit. The quilted design and style of adornments was captured in the classic Chanel 2.55 bag, which was created in 1955.

Luxury, sensual femininity and Parisian style all come to mind when we think of Chanel. However we must remember the powerful, confident and revolutionary mind that created the luxury house. ‘Coco avant Chanel’, ‘Coco before Chanel’ is released on the 31^st July in the UK.